How to Build Your Own PC - Save A Buck And Learn A Lot

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]CPU and RAM Installation Complete[/SIZE]

Congratulations! Your mainboard now has its CPU installed with its heatsink and fan, and the RAM has been put in place. The mainboard should now appear as in Figure 45, and is now ready to be placed in the case. ​

Figure 45: Mainboard with CPU, heatsink and RAM installed
The mainboard is now ready to install in the case.​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Chapter 4: Installing The Mainboard In The Case[/SIZE]

After you’ve installed the CPU, heatsink, and RAM to the mainboard, it’s time to install the mainboard in the case. Read the mainboard manual to see if any jumpers on the mainboard need to be adjusted. Usually, the board will be all ready to go. ​

It’s also a good idea to familiarize yourself with the various connectors on the mainboard, especially the

small pin connectors to the case, such as the power LED and reset switch. When the board is installed in the case, it might be harder to see the pins and the printing on the mainboard. So, it’s good to know what goes where ahead of time​

Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

• Determining How to Open the Case
• Opening the Case
• Examining the Drive Cages
• Removing the Side Panel
• Changing The I/O Shield
• Test Fitting and Installing the Mainboard
• Connecting Case Leads to the Mainboard

[SIZE=+2]Determining How to Open the Case[/SIZE]

Figuring out how to open the PC case can be slightly challenging. If your case came with instructions, examine the instructions to see how to open it. It’s always amusing to find a case with the instructions for opening it inside the case. ​

It’s possible to overlook some simple thing, such as a hidden latch that must be opened. And, if you overlook a hidden trick, you might find yourself unscrewing all sorts of things that would be better left alone, such as the screws attaching the power supply to the case. Unless your power supply fries and needs replacement, there’s no reason to remove it.​

Other systems have side panels that are easily removable from the back, while the front panel (also called a “bezel”) remains in place. You usually need to remove one or two screws that secure a side panel and then just slide the side panel out. ​

Other cases, such as some Dell cases, absolutely require finding a manual online or a Mensa-level intelligence to understand how to open the case. But, most ATX cases should open relatively easily. Just examine all sides and the top and the bottom of the case and decide how best to proceed. ​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Opening the Case[/SIZE]

Figure 46 shows us removing the front panel of our Enlight case. There is a latch below the front of the case which allows the front of the case to be removed. Be sure to press the latch all the way so that it disengages from the case. These latches are sometimes made of cheap plastic (or, at least, it appears cheap to me), so don’t use any greater force than necessary. With the latch pressed, pull the front cover away from the rest of the case.​

Figure 46: Removing the front cover of the PC case
Your case may open differently. Inspect it carefully before deciding how to proceed. Although the case is pictured lying flat on the table, it sometimes helps to lift the front of the case a few inches off the table to be able to get a good grip on the latch.​

After the latch has been disengaged from the case, the bezel pivots away at the top of the case. Only pivot the bezel a bit and then try to pull the bezel straight out and away from the case. ​

Figure 47: Bottom of the bezel
Notice the latches and lugs on bezels are often made of plastic. Be gentle to avoid breaking a lug or latch.​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Examining the Drive Cages[/SIZE]

After removing the front panel, we see several things. First is that there is a removable cage for holding a floppy drive, hard drive, and other 3.5" drives. This particular drive cage pulls out easily after disengaging two levers at the sides (Figure 48). The smaller 3.5" drives will be attached to this cage with screws. ​

Figure 48: Removing the 3.5” drive cage
3.5” drives (floppy and hard drives) will attach to this removable cage with screws.​

Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

• 3.5” Drive Cage
• 5.25” Drive Cage
• 5.25” RF Shields

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]3.5” Drive Cage[/SIZE]

Notice that this 3.5" drive cage has three locations, called drive bays, to attach 3.5" drives. Two of the three slots are covered by RF shields which are designed to provide a metal barrier between the inside of the case and the outside world. When installing a drive, you usually remove the RF shield. These particular shields just pop out and are easily replaceable (Figure 49). ​

Figure 49: The 3.5” drive cage removed
We have also taken out the metal part known as an RF shield. In the two open spaces, we’ll install the floppy and hard drives.​

Notice that the top bay matches up with the slot in the front bezel for the 3.5" floppy drive (Figure 50). So, you can’t install the floppy drive in the lower bay unless you want to use a power saw to cut out a hole in the front of the case, which you probably don’t want to do! This provides a fancy looking front for the floppy drive. The actual floppy drive will sit behind this interface. The button on the case to remove a floppy disk will engage the button on the floppy drive, itself, and the light from the LED showing floppy activity on the floppy drive will be channeled to the front. ​

Figure 50: Front of case next to bezel
Notice that when the floppy drive is installed, it must line up with the hole in the bezel. This determines the bay in which the floppy must be installed.​

Other cases just have the floppy drive sit flush with the front of the case. Either style is fine. ​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]5.25” Drive Cage[/SIZE]

Some cases will also have removable cages for 5.25" drives, such as CD-RW drives. Working with a 5.25" cage is usually the same as working with a 3.5" cage. Either the 5.25" drives will be attached to the cage with screws or sometimes rails will be attached to the drive and then the rails slide into place in the cage. If rails come with your case, just attach the rails to the drive and insert the drive. Be sure the rails aren’t upside down or backward. ​

This particular case doesn’t use a 5.25" removable cage. And, it doesn’t have removable rails which are attached to the sides of the drives. Rather, for each drive bay, it has levers that pull out. Then the drive is placed into its bay and pushed into place, and the levers are closed to engage the drive and hold it in place (Figure 51). This design doesn’t even require a screwdriver.​

Figure 51: 5.25” Drive Levers
This case has little levers that pull out. Then, the 5.25” device is inserted. Then, the lever is closed to secure the drive. Your PC case will have its own method of securing 5.25” drives to it.​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]5.25” RF Shields[/SIZE]

The 5.25" RF shields have one opening which, it is assumed, will be used for the CD-RW. The other RF shields are also removable. However, they’re attached by thin pieces of metal (Figure 52). To remove a shield, just twist, turn, and bend the RF shield until it breaks loose. Unfortunately, sometimes, there will be sharp edges, and, once removed, such a shield can’t be replaced. So, only remove this type of shield as you need the bay. And, always be careful of sharp edges on a case. We won’t be using any of the other 5.25" drive bays, so we’ll leave all 5.25" RF shields in place. If the metal holding a “removable” shield is particularly strong, you might need to cut it with a wire cutter with a small head (called a side cutter). Be careful not to cut yourself when breaking off one of these RF shields. Blood spurting out of your hand detracts from the fun of building your own PC.​

Figure 52: Removable 5.25” RF shields
These 5.25” RF shields are “removable” by breaking them off. Use a side cutter to detach the next shield, if needed. One space is already provided for one 5.25” drive. Be careful not to push too hard to remove one of these, because when it breaks off, your hand could slip and you could get cut by the sharp edges.​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Removing the Side Panel[/SIZE]

Next, we remove the side panel. It’s held in place with a single screw, which we remove as shown in Figure 53. Then the side panel is easily removed (Figure 54). ​

Figure 53: Removing the side panel of the case
It’s held in by a single screw. You generally remove the side oppose the I/O shield which we discuss next. Pull the side slightly forward to remove it. Your case may disassemble differently.​

Figure 54: Removing the side panel
After sliding the panel forward a bit, it will disengage.​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Changing The I/O Shield[/SIZE]

Now that the case is opened, we can examine the I/O shield at the back of the case (Figure 55). This is a metal shield through which connectors attached to the mainboard protrude. The PS/2 mouse connection, PS/2 keyboard connection, serial port, parallel port, and other connections to the mainboard will be connected through the I/O shield. ​

Figure 55: Back of the case
The top arrow points to the removable I/O shield. The bottom arrow points to removable slot covers for expansion cards (PCI cards and AGP cards) discussed later.​

Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

• Comparing I/O Shield to Motherboard I/O Connectors
• Removing the Existing I/O Shield
• Installing the New I/O Shield

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Comparing I/O Shield to Motherboard I/O Connectors[/SIZE]

The I/O shield that comes with the case doesn’t match up with the connectors on the mainboard. We can see this by comparing the I/O connectors on the mainboard to the shield. Just hold the mainboard up to the shield or place it inside the case so the connectors face the I/O shield to see if the mainboard matches the existing I/O shield. If the mainboard comes with its own I/O shield, we can hold up the I/O shield that comes with the mainboard and compare it to the one that comes with the case (Figure 56).​

Figure 56: Comparing I/O shields​

Our mainboard has built-in networking, and there is an RJ-45 network connection directly to the mainboard. The I/O shield that comes with the mainboard allows for this connection, while the standard one that comes with the case doesn’t. So, we need to replace the I/O shield. ​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Removing the Existing I/O Shield[/SIZE]

Our first step is to remove the I/O shield that comes with the case, so that we can install the new I/O shield. Many I/O shields are designed to pop into place from the rear of the case. These are removed by pushing them from outside the case back into the case. Sometimes using a small, flat screwdriver to wedge one side of the shield into the slot helps get it started (Figure 57). ​

Figure 57: Removing the I/O shield
Some I/O shields pop out easily; others are best removed by using a small, flat screwdriver to disengage them. Be careful when pushing on these, because they often contain sharp edges.​

The shield that came with this case is slightly different. It has two sides which are different and is most easily removed by first using a flat screwdriver to push one side of the shield out of the case. Then, the I/O shield can be removed by pushing it from inside the case (Figure 58 and Figure 59). ​

Figure 58: Using a screwdriver to pop out the old I/O shield
This particular shield removes most naturally from the back of the case. Some shields are best removed by pushing them into the case. Examine your shield to decide how best to proceed. Using the back of a screwdriver to do the pushing helps prevent cut fingers if the I/O shield pops out suddenly.​

Figure 59: Removing I/O shield from the back
When installing the new shield, orientation is important.​

I/O shields are often designed so that the metal at the edges wraps around to give the edges a natural springiness that holds the I/O shield in place. Examine your I/O shield carefully before you start to remove it to help you find the best way to remove it. ​

Figure 60 shows the removed I/O shield next to the back of the case.​

Figure 60: Removed I/O shield next to back of case​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Installing the New I/O Shield[/SIZE]

Now we’ll put the new I/O shield in place. First we will orient it as shown in Figure 61. Then, since this new shield is the conventional style, we’ll pop it into place from inside the case (Figure 62). After installing the I/O shield from the inside of the case, we could use the back of a screwdriver to push the I/O shield into place. Some I/O shields have very sharp edges, so be careful not to allow your hand to slip and hit the shield or the case when you’re removing or installing an I/O shield. Remember, blood spurting out of your finger will detract from the fun of building your own PC. ​

Figure 61: Orienting the I/O shield
The corner of the mainboard must sit toward the top of the case (see Figure 58 to get an idea of where the mainboard sits). Thus, the new I/O shield must be installed so that the two big holes on the left (for the keyboard and mouse) are toward the top of the case. The three connectors to the right are for the mainboard’s built-in sound.​

Figure 62: Popping the new I/O shield into place
Note: The orientation of the shield is determined by the mainboard. The metal fins of the shield point inward. Writing on the shield to identify the connectors is on the outside.​

The preceding figures show us that the orientation of the I/O shield is important. Typically, the PS/2 connectors for the keyboard and the mouse will sit toward the top of the case. ​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Test Fitting and Installing the Mainboard[/SIZE]

Now that you have the new I/O shield installed, we can test fit the mainboard (Figure 63 and Figure 64). Turn the case on its side so that the mainboard can easily be placed in its location. You’ll know where the mainboard should sit because the I/O connectors from the mainboard will need to line up with the I/O shield. There are usually several standoffs already placed inside the case on which the mainboard will sit. ​

Figure 63: Fitting the mainboard
Place the case on its side. Push all power connectors and wires out of the way before placing the mainboard. Our initial goal is to learn where we want to place standoffs which will support the board.​

Figure 64: Placing the mainboard in the case
Handle the mainboard by the edges.​

Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

• Aligning Case Standoff Locations to Mainboard Holes
• Choosing and Installing Standoffs
• Seating the Mainboard Against the I/O Shield
• Securing the Mainboard to the Case
• Physical Mainboard Installation Complete

 

[Baba Mtu]

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Aligning Case Standoff Locations to Mainboard Holes[/SIZE]

The mainboard should fit with no problem. We need to watch out for extra standoffs that don’t line up with screw holes in the mainboard. Remove those standoffs or they will touch the bottom of the mainboard in undesirable locations. A standoff below a screw hole is acceptable (Figure 65 and Figure 66). ​

Figure 65: Aligning case standoffs and mainboard holes
Every case standoff must line up with a hole in the mainboard. Remove any standoffs that don’t line up. This is important, because improperly placed standoffs could inappropriately ground parts of the mainboard.​

Figure 66: Removing an offending standoff
This standoff wouldn’t sit below a hole in the mainboard. When placing the board, always look for standoffs that don’t line up with holes.​

We might also want to add a few extra standoffs at other locations that match up with screw holes in the mainboard. In particular, in this build, we needed to add standoffs in the area around the sockets for the ATX power supply and the ribbon cable sockets for the floppy and hard drives. These standoffs help reduce stress to the mainboard when the ribbon and power cables are plugged in. We don’t want the board to bend under the force of plugging in a ribbon cable. Figure 65 shows a standoff near a ribbon socket. ​

 

[Baba Mtu]

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Choosing and Installing Standoffs[/SIZE]

Count the final number of standoffs that you plan to use, and be sure that there is a screw hole in the mainboard for each standoff used. Then, be sure each standoff is visible through a screw hole. This will help you not to forget to remove a standoff without a screw hole above it on the mainboard. ​

Some cases come with plastic standoffs which are designed to be inserted into the mainboard first.

Then, the bottom end of the plastic standoff sits on the metal case. ​

The Enlight case comes with two different types of standoffs. One style is designed with a screw hole in the top. This allows the mainboard to be secured to the case with a screw. These standoffs are also

used for properly grounding the mainboard to the case. Screwing down the mainboard to the standoff grounds the mainboard. You’ll see a ring of metal around the mainboard hole. This ring helps ground the mainboard to the case. Some experts suggest only using plastic standoffs below mainboard holes that lack a ring of metal. A variety of standoffs will usually come with your PC case. ​

The other style of standoff isn’t designed to be screwed down. It just sits below the mainboard and provides a resting surface for the mainboard. This case has two screw-down standoffs already in good locations, and we’ll screw down the mainboard only in those two locations. ​

Be sure to test fit the screws that come with your case to be sure that you’ve selected the correct screws for securing the mainboard (Figure 67). If you just start a screw with a screwdriver, it’s possible to strip the socket or the screw threads. So before you seat the mainboard, first test the screw with your hand to be sure it works. Then, have the two proper screws (or more) handy when you place the mainboard. ​

Figure 67: Testing a screw in a standoff hole
At least two standoffs will be designed so that the mainboard can be screwed down and secured.

​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Seating the Mainboard Against the I/O Shield[/SIZE]

As you place the mainboard, you might notice that it wants to sit about a quarter inch back from the I/O shield. This is natural. Move the board around just a bit, and push it toward the I/O shield. It should pop into location. Then, the screw holes of the standoffs should be centered under the screw holes of the mainboard. ​

The I/O shield has little fins sticking out which are designed to press against the I/O connectors of the mainboard. These fins help ground the mainboard (in theory, at least. If your I/O shield is plastic, I don’t see how this can work!) Plus, the pressure from these fins helps secure the mainboard in place. ​

After you push the mainboard toward the I/O shield and the board is properly lined-up, examine the connectors through the I/O shield. Sometimes, one of the metal fins will get in the way and be smashed so that it sits in front of the I/O connector, effectively preventing the connector’s use (Figure 68).​

Figure 68: Bent fin
The back of the case shows that as the mainboard was pushed toward the I/O shield, one of the metal fins was bent and now interferes with the connector. If this happens, remove the mainboard and bend the offending fin out of the way.​

Simply remove the board and bend any offending I/O fins back and out of the way and try again to seat the mainboard. Be sure that any fins you bend back don’t touch any part of the mainboard, or, if they do, try to make the fins only touch the metal case of the I/O connectors on the board. ​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Securing the Mainboard to the Case[/SIZE]

Also when securing the mainboard, be sure all case wires are out of the way. Don’t allow any case wires to remain below the mainboard. And, if you drop any screws or anything else, be sure they’re removed before installing the mainboard. Any little metal parts inappropriately floating around under the mainboard could cause problems, because they could inappropriately ground the bottom of the board. Also be sure that your screwdriver is clean and has no metal shavings or grease on it from previous projects. Little metal shavings are also bad for mainboards. ​

Now screw the mainboard to the case (Figure 69). You’ll only need two screws. But, feel free to use more.​

Figure 69: Screwing down the mainboard secures it to the case​

 

[Herbalist Dr MziziMkavu]

[SIZE=+2]Physical Mainboard Installation Complete[/SIZE]

You now have your mainboard installed in the case (Figure 70). Unless you decide to upgrade the mainboard, you’ll probably never need to remove it. If you do, be sure to prepare a clean surface to set the mainboard on and be sure to ground your hands by touching a metal surface before touching the mainboard.​

Figure 70: Mainboard installed in the case​