How to Build Your Own PC - Save A Buck And Learn A Lot

How to Build Your Own PC - Save A Buck And Learn A Lot

[SIZE=+2]Partitioning and Formatting the Hard Drive[/SIZE]

Next, we’re taken to a menu that allows us to partition your new hard drive (Figure 135). Think of partitioning a hard drive as breaking it up into sections. After partitioning, each partition or section will then be formatted so that it can be read by various operating systems. One of the original purposes of partitioning a hard drive was to allow the hard drive to support multiple operating systems. Each operating system could be given its own partition, which could then be formatted for that operating system.
The onscreen message says “Press C” to partition and we do. The screen tells us that 76309 MB is available for partitioning our 80 GB drive.
NOTE: For the photos in this book, we partitioned a 4 GB virtual drive which shows 4095 MB as available (as in Figure 135). That’s about 4 GB. We’ll make the Windows Partition 2000 MB (about 2 GB) (see Figure 136). We’ll leave 2000 MB unpartitioned to demonstrate a dual boot operating system, where Linux is installed into the unpartitioned and unformatted part of the disk. Your PC will show far larger numbers for available space. Today, a 2 GB partition is small!

Figure 135: Unpartitioned space on the hard drive
Notice we only have 4095 MB (about 4 GB) of unpartitioned space. This is because we partitioned a virtual hard drive (VMWare) so we could get screen captures for this book. For an 80 GB drive, expect to see a number like 76309 MB, rather than 4095 MB.
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Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

 
[SIZE=+2]Selecting the Partition Size[/SIZE]

The screen in Figure 136 asks us how much of the drive we want to use to create the partition. Notice that at this point your keypad numbers will not work, and you’ll need to use the numbers above the letter keys. That’s normal. Also, you can use the backspace key to delete the default number, which is just the maximum size of a partition on your hard drive.

Figure 136: Selecting a partition size
Choose the size of the partition you desire and hit ENTER. If you only plan to install Windows XP, you can use the full amount as one partition. Save some unpartitioned space if you plan to install a Linux dual boot. Here, we created a partition of 2000 MB on our virtual drive. For XP, you’ll probably want at least 40000 MB (about 40 GB).
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We’ll make the partition 40 GB (about 40000 MB) or about half the available space. That’s plenty of space for what we intend to do, and we’ll be using the other half of the drive to install Linux later to give us a dual boot operating system.
If you plan to use only one operating system, or if you have a smaller hard drive and need all the space, you can go ahead and use all available space for the Windows partition and then make that correspond to the C:\ drive. The default number shown for creating the partition is the maximum size of your drive. Just hit ENTER to create this maximum-sized partition if you plan to install Windows XP as the only operating system.
 
[SIZE=+2]Partitioning for Multiple Operating Systems[/SIZE]

If you plan to install a dual boot operating system, it’s good to decide how much hard drive space you want allocated for each system. For example, if you have an 80 GB drive, and you primarily run Windows, but you’d like to experiment with Linux, you might allow 60 GB (about 60000 MB) for a Windows partition. Then, use the remaining 20 GB for installing a Linux partition. If you plan to actively use both Windows and Linux, you might decide to enter half of the maximum disk space as the Windows partition. Then, the other half can be used for Linux.
If you plan to dual boot with Windows 98 and Windows XP (or triple boot Windows 98, Windows XP, and Linux), you’ll want to leave enough drive space for another partition (which will be FAT formatted), because Windows 98 only recognizes FAT formatted partitions. Install Windows 98 first.
After we choose how large to make the Windows partition, we hit “enter” to see the new partitioning information (Figure 137). You can see the space that has been left unpartitioned. To do the actual partitioning, we hit “enter” again which installs the partition to the hard drive.

Figure 137: Reserving space for a second operating system
We’ve created the 2000 MB partition and have 2000 MB remaining unpartitioned for Linux (to be installed later). If you change your mind and want to use a smaller or larger partition, hit D. Otherwise, hit ENTER to begin formatting and to set up Windows XP.

Notice: Our 2000 MB partition is small, because we’re actually partitioning a virtual drive. Your partition should probably be at least 40000 MB.
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[SIZE=+2]Choosing the File System for the New Partition[/SIZE]

After partitioning the hard drive, a format screen appears automatically, and gives you a choice of file system for formatting (Figure 138). The file system describes the way that the operating system stores information on the hard drive. To format 40 GB as one partition, we’ll use NTFS file system, which stands for New Technology File System. OTFS or Old Technology File System is called FAT. FAT stands for File Allocation Table.

Figure 138: We choose to format the partition with NTFS
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Either NTFS or FAT is basically a way of keeping track of where information is stored on the disk. Information is divided into what are called clusters. NTFS or FAT lets us find clusters of information on the hard drive.
Imagine having a big house and a small notebook. Each room in the house corresponds to a cluster. Every time you purchase something to put in the house, you place it in one of the rooms and record which room the item is in, in your notebook. Then, if you ever want to get the item, you look at your notebook to find the room. NTFS has a bigger notebook than FAT. NTFS also has better security, so people don’t break into your house.
NTFS allows us to make larger partitions, and it’s generally considered superior to FAT. If the partition must be read by Windows 98, FAT is necessary. FAT16 volumes are limited to 2 GB. That is why systems running Windows 95 that had large hard drives needed to have many drive letters: C, D, E... each only containing 2 GB. You can have one big C drive with NTFS. There are also two versions of FAT known as FAT16 and FAT32. If you use Windows 98, you’ll probably use FAT32. However, if you don’t need to use Windows 98 and only plan to use Windows XP, use NTFS as your file system.
 
[SIZE=+2]Formatting the New Partition[/SIZE]

In practice, all you really need to know about NTFS is that when you’re prompted to format the system, you select the NTFS option. To select NTFS, press “ENTER,” and let the computer partition the hard drive. A status bar shows us the formatting progress (Figure 139).

Figure 139: Formatting
The status bar will tell you of the progress. For a large hard drive, feel free to take a break and check back on the progress later.
figure139.png

The format program will also ask if you want to do a quick format or a full format. Select full format. That is usually the best option and also the default option Windows offers.
 
[SIZE=+2]Copying Files to the Computer[/SIZE]

Formatting the hard drive takes some time, so you might want to go get a Pepsi or some coffee. After the formatting is finished, XP begins copying operating system files to the hard drive (Figure 7.9). Then, your system will reboot to continue the installation process.
Figure 140: Copying files
Setup is now copying files to your hard drive. After this, Windows XP will restart to complete the installation.
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[SIZE=+2]Entering Regional, Language and Personal Settings[/SIZE]

After the system reboots, you are prompted to provide some information for Windows. You’ll be asked for your regional and language settings (Figure 141). And, you’ll be asked to enter your name to personalize your computer (Figure 142).

Figure 141: Regional and Language Options
Just hit “Next” to choose English as your language.
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Figure 142: Enter your name and your organization
You can enter your full name. You’ll be able to create user accounts later, where you can enter your username.
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[SIZE=+2]Entering the Windows XP Product Key[/SIZE]

You’ll need to enter your Windows XP key code (Figure 143). Be sure to write this number down in case you need it later. I find writing this number in the Windows manual is handy. If your CD comes in a cheap floppy paper holder and you transfer the CD to a jewel case, be sure to copy the number onto a paper inside the jewel case. It’s also a good idea to keep the original CD holder. (Keep all the stuff that’s left over after the build in its own box, in case you need it later.)

Figure 143: Entering your product key
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If your key code number is rejected, it probably means you misentered it. Try again. And, again. And, possibly, again. Be alert for tricky letters like “I” which could be mistaken for a “1.” Or a “B” for an “8.”
 
[SIZE=+2]Naming the Computer and Setting the Date and Time[/SIZE]

You’ll be asked to name your computer (Figure 144). Computer names are useful if your computer is on a network. We named our PC “ASUS.” Another screen appears asking for date and time settings (Figure 145).

Figure 144: Naming the PC
Like a proud new parent, you can name your PC. The name will identify the PC on a network.
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Figure 145: Date and time settings
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[SIZE=+2]Copying Remaining Files to Hard Drive[/SIZE]

Windows will then copy some more files to your hard drive. You can see the progress of the install by the status bar at the left of the screen. Depending upon your point of view, either useful information or Microsoft propaganda appears at the right of the screen. Don’t worry about reading this. It’s not important.

Next, you’ll be asked if you wish to “activate Windows.” You can choose to activate Windows now or you can do it later. I’d probably do it later, after you’re fully satisfied with the install. Just select to activate later and continue. We’ll discuss activation in more detail later.


[SIZE=+2]Adjusting Monitor Settings[/SIZE]

The computer might ask you if it can adjust the settings of your monitor. If it does, you’ll have only an “OK” box to select (Figure 146). Then, another screen will test whether or not the screen is readable with the new settings (Figure 147). If the screen isn’t readable, don’t worry. The settings should revert to the previous settings. We discuss the importance of having the correct monitor identified and how to install video drivers later.

Figure 146: When “OK” is your only choice...hit OK
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Figure 147: Adjusting display settings
After adjusting your display settings, you’re asked to hit OK to confirm that you can read the display. If the display is unreadable, the settings should revert.
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[SIZE=+2]Adding Users[/SIZE]

Next, we add users to the computer (Figure 148). Users allow several people to use the same PC, and each user can have his or her own files and settings. I added a user for “Charlie.” I also added a user for “Ducker.” A username should not be the same as the computer name.

Figure 148: Adding users to the computer
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[SIZE=+2]Completing Installation and Booting Windows XP from the Hard Drive[/SIZE]

When the computer is finished copying files, you can remove the Windows XP CD and click the little arrow on the “Thank you” screen to restart the computer (Figure 149).

Figure 149: Installation complete
Hit the little arrow to finish.
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The PC will now boot from the hard drive and show the standard Windows login screen (Figure 150).

Figure 150: Standard Windows login screen
Click on your user icon to log into Windows. Each user can have his or her own personalized settings. (You can change your login picture later if you wish. Just go to “Control Panel” and select “User Accounts.”)
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You’ve now successfully installed Windows XP onto your computer. You can operate your computer and install software. Congratulations!
 
[SIZE=+2]Chapter 10: Configuring Windows XP[/SIZE]

It’s crucial to note that when you purchase a PC with software already installed, the manufacturer has probably taken several steps to be sure the PC works well. For example, all necessary drivers will be installed. You’ll need to do some of these things yourself when you build your own PC. But, in so

doing, you’ll know more about your PC and be a better PC troubleshooter in the future.
So now that we have completed the basic Windows XP installation, let’s finish configuring the operating system so that it works in top form. A few things should be done. The order isn’t particularly important.
Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section


[SIZE=+2]Updating Windows XP[/SIZE]

First, after installing a modem and getting your modem connection working, log in and then click the “Start” button to open the Start Menu (Figure 151). Then find “Windows Update.” You may be familiar with Windows Update already. Basically, you go online; Microsoft scans your system; and then Microsoft installs any improvements it’s made to your operating system since your last operating system update.

Figure 151: Logging in and opening the Start Menu
Hitting the start menu brings up the menu of options. Go to “Control Panel” to get to Device Manager. Note: First, we’ll get the proper monitor recognized. But, if you want to change the desktop later, right click on the desktop and select “Properties.”
figure151.png

For us, Windows update finds 29 MB of critical system and security updates. Go get another Pepsi or coffee as it downloads and installs your updates.
It’s a good idea to run Windows update regularly and install any critical updates, because malicious hackers find new ways to infiltrate and attack Windows. Microsoft usually then finds a defense which is made available via a software “patch.” Not regularly updating your Windows operating system could leave your computer vulnerable to attack.


Similarly, you should regularly update your antivirus software so that it can recognize new viruses and protect your computer from them. You should purchase an antivirus program for your PC. I like Norton AntiVirus. You should also purchase a firewall, such as Zone Alarm. XP has a built-in firewall, but I like Zone Alarm better. Finally, you should go to download.com and get a free program such as Spybot Search and Destroy, which removes spyware from your system.
 
[SIZE=+2]Activating Windows[/SIZE]

Next, go to “Activate Windows” (Start...Programs...Accessories...Program Tools...Activate Windows). A certain number of days after the first install, you must “Activate” Windows XP or else it stops working completely. You’ll want a modem to Activate Windows online.
Basically, “Activate Windows” is a way to protect Microsoft from software piracy. When you “Activate”



Windows, your PC logs onto Microsoft’s website and Microsoft takes a snapshot of your computer’s hardware. Then, if someone later tries to activate that particular copy of Windows XP on another computer, it won’t allow activation, because it won’t be able to match up the hardware on that computer with the hardware information that Microsoft has stored in a database.


An interesting question: What if you upgrade your system by adding a new mainboard, a new hard drive, and a new DVD drive? The “snapshot” Windows has of your old system might think you’re trying to install the operating system onto another computer, even though the old components are no longer in use.


One possibility is adding only one part at a time to the old system, for example, the new hard drive. Then, hopefully, Microsoft will recognize that you’re just upgrading an existing system. Then, activate Windows. If an activation fails, you can always call Microsoft and explain the situation to them. No promises this will help you!


Be aware that if you retire an older computer and try to do a full installation of Windows XP from the CD onto your new computer, the activation will fail. To me, that seems unfair.
You will need to go through the activation process only if you need to reinstall Windows XP from the CD to a hard drive. Another good option is to back up your full Windows system, using MS backup, to be discussed later.


[SIZE=+2]Installing Drivers For Your Devices[/SIZE]

Now that you have an operating system installed, you’ll need to install drivers for your devices such as Video Cards, Network Interface Cards, Sound Cards, etc. In many cases, if Windows recognizes the device, drivers will be installed automatically. In some cases, generic drivers are installed and they will work fine.


Drivers are small software programs that help the operating system use or “drive” the device. Whenever a device doesn’t work properly, ask if the proper driver has been installed.
Notice that when you purchase a PC from a major manufacturer, such as Gateway or Dell, they’ll be sure your system has working drivers installed for all hardware. But, when you build your own system, you might need to find and install drivers to get your hardware working properly. This will actually help you learn more about your PC, and, if things go wrong later, you’ll have a head start in solving PC problems.
 
[SIZE=+2]Driver Installation Example: Monitor Driver[/SIZE]

We’ll use the Monitor, which is actually driven by the video card, as an example. The monitor purchased for this PC build is a ViewSonic A70f+ 17" monitor.
Installing the proper monitor information files is one of the small things that purchasing a fully assembled PC will have done for you. Trying to drive a monitor at too high a refresh rate is one of the very few things that you can mess up with software that has the potential to destroy hardware.
We’ll start by opening the Control Panel (Figure 152).

Figure 152: The control panel window
Select “System” to get to Device Manager.
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Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section

 
[SIZE=+2]Default Monitor Driver[/SIZE]

In the Control Panel, select.System to open the System Properties dialog box (Figure 153). Then select “Device Manager” to get a list of hardware in the PC. Finally, click “Monitor,” and you’ll see that a generic monitor is listed (Figure 154). Windows knows it’s a Plug and Play monitor, but it doesn’t list the exact model. This means the PC recognizes and can use your monitor, but it doesn’t identify the exact model of the monitor.

Figure 153: System Properties
Under “System Properties,” we can hit “Device Manager” to look at the devices in the system.
figure153.png



Figure 154: Generic monitor identified
Only a plug-and-play monitor is recognized. We’ll change that in a minute.
figure154.png
 
[SIZE=+2]Locating a New Driver[/SIZE]

A disk came with the Viewsonic monitor, and we’ll put that in the CD drive. Autorun starts a program to install a new driver, but it fails with the message that it couldn’t find a better driver. The generic plug and play driver will still be used. This could be because the CD only has a driver for Windows 98 and not XP yet. Or sometimes software just sucks! We tested the CD with Windows 98 and found it also didn’t

work properly. In this case, we learned the software just sucks. The lesson is that sometimes you’ll do everything correctly and something just won’t work. The failure isn’t your fault. It’s a flaw in the program. But, you must find a workaround.

We’ll go to the website for viewsonic.com and look under “Download Drivers.” When looking for updated drivers for a device, your first visit can be to the hardware manufacturer’s website. Viewsonic.com sends us to microsoft.com to see if the A70f+ monitor is “Signed” or “Unsigned” for Windows XP. “Signed” means the monitor or other device is designed for Windows XP. “Signed” means “Approved.”

“Unsigned” means the monitor isn’t designed for Windows XP. It might work, but there are no promises.
The ViewSonic A70f+ is signed for Windows XP. Going back to the viewsonic.com website, it says for all Windows XP signed monitors, we should download the file vs-winXP.exe as the driver. We download the 1.72 MB file and save it to our hard drive.


[SIZE=+2]Installing the New Driver[/SIZE]

We double click on the vs-winXP.exe program (anything ending in .exe is an executable program) and it installs the proper monitor information.
In addition to drivers, there are also .inf files which provide information about a device. A monitor doesn’t actually have drivers. Monitors are driven by the video card. So, the monitor “driver” is really just an information file telling the actual driver what settings the monitor supports.
We now examine Device Manager again and it lists the monitor as a ViewSonic A70f+ (Figure 155). This means the correct monitor is identified. If we right click on the monitor in Device Manager, we bring up its properties dialog box.

Figure 155: ViewSonic monitor now recognized
After downloading and running the proper driver installer from ViewSonic, the correct monitor is identified.
figure155.png



 
[SIZE=+2]Installing Other Drivers[/SIZE]

Proceed similarly to install drivers for your other devices, such as a sound card if you have one. Whenever a device doesn’t seem to be working properly, ask if you’ve installed the proper device driver or if it’s been done automatically. Looking for the device under Device Manager in Windows is a good way to see if the device driver is installed. We’ll install a controller for the built-in networking. As you can see in Figure 156, a question mark by Ethernet Controller in Device Manager shows that network drivers aren’t yet installed.

Figure 156: Unrecognized device
An ethernet controller isn’t recognized yet. We need to install the proper driver.
figure156.png

If your mainboard has built-in sound or networking, a CD that contains drivers probably came with the mainboard. Place the CD into the CD drive and let Windows XP search for the appropriate driver.
If we place the CD that came with the mainboard into the drive and double click on the CD drive letter in Windows, the CD shows us that drivers can be installed for AC’97 sound, USB 2.0, and networking (Figure 157).

Figure 157: ASUS driver installation program
Installing network drivers from the CD that came with the mainboard. We install the LAN driver.
figure157.png

After installing the LAN (Local Area Networking) driver, Device Manager shows us the network driver is installed (Figure 158).

Figure 158: Network driver installed
After selecting “Install Broadcom LAN driver,” we inspect Device Manager to be sure the network driver is properly recognized.
figure158.png
 
[SIZE=+2]Dealing with Driver Problems[/SIZE]

Hardware won’t work properly if it doesn’t have proper driver software installed. It is quite common to experience driver-related difficulties when you build a new PC, so let’s take a look at some ideas for how to deal with them.

In general, if your device needs a device driver or an .inf file, see if a CD or disk came with the device. If it didn’t or it doesn’t work, see if you can find the manufacturer’s website using google.com. Most manufacturers have free drivers online for their products.

It’s good for the computer to know the exact model and make of your monitor before you install non-generic video drivers, because some video drivers might try to operate the monitor at a faster refresh frequency than the monitor can handle. If this happens, your screen will go very fuzzy or blurry. Prolonged time doing this can damage the monitor. A hissing sound from the monitor is especially bad. If this happens, restart the PC immediately in “Safe Mode” and temporarily disable the hyped-out video driver until the proper monitor information is provided.
Quick navigation to subsections and regular topics in this section


[SIZE=+2]Missing Drivers[/SIZE]

A missing driver is one of the first things to check for if added hardware won’t work. For example, if we try to use the mainboard’s built-in networking to connect to another PC in our home, it won’t work. It’s not that the built-in hardware for networking doesn’t work. Examining Device Manager...Other Devices...Ethernet Controller, we see that no driver has been installed (Figure 156). The key expressions telling us something is missing are “Unknown” and “Not Available.” Things should be known and available to our PC! Question marks next to devices in Device Manager aren’t good either! When in doubt whether a driver is installed, right click on the device in Device Manager to see the driver information.
 
[SIZE=+2]Updating Drivers[/SIZE]

If we hadn’t already run the CD that came with the mainboard to install all the drivers for onboard devices, we could proceed as follows to install the Ethernet driver. Hit “Update Driver” (Figure 159).

Figure 159: Ethernet Controller Properties
Right clicking on the Ethernet Controller in Device Manager is another way to change the network driver. If some piece of hardware isn’t working, ask if the device needs a driver and see if the proper driver is installed.
figure159.png

We’re taken to a “Hardware Update Wizard” screen (Figure 160), which allows us to install the driver software. We’re told to insert the CD that came with the hardware. In this case, the network adapter is part of the mainboard, so we insert the CD that came with the mainboard.

Figure 160: Hardware Update Wizard
Selecting “Update Driver” brings up the hardware update
wizard.
figure160.png

If we insert the mainboard CD now, the system appears to hang. So, we hit Ctrl+Alt+Delete and receive a message that the Hardware Wizard program isn’t responding. That confirms our hunch that the Wizard wasn’t working. We close the non-responsive program.
Trying again, we select “Install from a list or specific location” (Figure 160). Then, we select the CD as the removable drive to search for a new driver. You might think that these two approaches should lead to the same result, either failure to install or success. It doesn’t turn out that way, however! The Wizard now runs and properly finds the driver! Examining Device Manager, we see the proper network adapter is recognized, as in Figure 158.
If we look under “Network Connections” (Figure 161), we see that the Local Area Network (LAN) is enabled. And, our new system can connect to other systems in our house (We have a network hub and cables installed already).

Figure 161: Network Connections (under Control Panel)
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