Hute this are the clean Western cities u say
A Vacation in Rome: Angels, Demons and Dirt
AUGUST 14, 2014 6 comments
Our vacation this
year was to Rome,
Italy and it was
good and bad.
Ive been trying to
reconcile this trip
in my own mind
but am still
wrestling with it
so thought best to
get it out of my
head and in a post.
Our family approached this trip with great
anticipation. My kids are 26 and 19 so it is
likely our last vacation together as only the
four of us. Having never been to Rome, we
planned for months. Heres what we
discovered, though these opinions are more
mine than my wife or kids:
THE BAD
Tough to see, but the area in front of our five
star hotel is littered with cigarette butts and
trash
which is *everywhere* in Rome (click for
larger view)
1) THE FILTH: Oh my God is Rome filthy. Old
is one thing, but cigarette butts, wrappers,
cans and bottles, homeless peoples food
debris (and urine) is everywhere , and no one
has cleaned a sidewalk here since the time of
Caesar (or so it seems). It is just simply dirty.
What really stunned me, though, was the
endless graffiti. It covers every surface from
upscale hotels and office buildings, to subway
cars to every shop and apartment building.
Even in the town near Ostia Antica, the
ancient Roman port city, there was graffiti on
buildings.
Over several days as we were in neighborhood
after neighborhood, tony shopping districts,
the subway, towns outside Rome, and even
major attractions, and the thought that kept
coming in to my mind constantly was, Man
Rome is a shithole! and I couldnt figure out
if Romans didnt care about Rome, or
corruption is rampant so no one does much
work, or something that makes people put up
with this in a city with as much potential as
this one.
Every subway car was covered, windows
etched with knives, and graffiti was all over
the inside too.
This filth, or lackadaisical attitude about the
cleanliness of the city, even translates to the
overwhelming majority of cars driven by
Romans in the city. Nearly every vehicle I
looked at on the road, in parking lots and
parked on the side of roads was scratched,
dinged and just simply dirty. Even new cars. I
just didnt get it, especially from this land and
people who have designed and given us
Ferraris and Lamborghinis.
I actually had my small wallet in a front
pocket but the pickpocket got it anyway
2) THE CRIME: Our last day we were riding the
metro bus from a museum near the Vatican
and my wallet was pickpocketed. Even though
Id taken incredible caution for the entire trip
especially since every guidebook warns over-
and-over again to wear a moneybelt and be
extremely cautiousthis time I slipped it into
my pocket so someone grabbed it. To say I
was upset and angry is an understatement, so
much so my daughter got off the bus since I
was making a scene.
Coat of arms of the Carabinieri
We went back to our hotel room to cancel my
credit cards and place a fraud alert on our
credit report, when a call came in from the
front desk. Turns out a team from the
Carabinieri, the Italian national military police,
had busted a gang of Romanian pickpockets
and they found my wallet in one guys
backpack!
I got everything back. To say I was stunned
and amazed is putting it mildly. Based on all
the TripAdvisor forum posts, the articles and
forum post at travel expert Rick Steves
website, this type of crime is rampant in Rome
and, as Steves said in one article, . ..at least
one person on every tour is pickpocketed .
The scams, people hustling, and the ripoffs
made me feel like I was traveling to a third
world country, not a modern one like Italy.
But there was a lot of good and amazing
things to see and experience and we had those
too, thankfully.
THE GOOD: ANCIENT ROME
No question the highlights of our trip were the
stunning and amazing antiquities, the
Colosseum, the Forum, our trip to Pompeii
(though Naples is even filthier than Rome),
and the sheer volume of human history here.
Our tour of the Vatican was breathtaking,
especially considering the vast wealth held by
the Catholic church. That said, I saw little
public effort in Rome to deal with the
incredible number of homeless on the streets,
and wondered where was the Catholic church?
We saw the same people day after day, some
who exhibited signs of mental illness. I
couldnt help but think that, if the Vatican
sold a couple of their statues, Catholic
Charities could do a whole lot more about the
homeless problem right in their own backyard.
We took a few hundred photos of our trip,
most of which Ill post on my Flickr account
soon.
To see the places Id read about all my life,
ponder gladiators in the Colosseum, see the
supposed place where the apostle Peter was
crucified inverted, view the Sistine Chapel, and
all the other major historical areas was
absolutely overwhelming and totally
worthwhile.
Whats curious to me is this: After our
vacations to Britain, several other countries in
Europe, Japan, Australia, and Peru, Rome is
not on our list to return. I have a desire to see
the Tuscany region in central Italy (and
Florence) because of its physical beauty and
as an epicenter for the Renaissance, but
Rome? Nope.
