Biashara ya Mbao na Miti: Fahamu Uendeshaji, Faida na Changamoto zake

Biashara ya Mbao na Miti: Fahamu Uendeshaji, Faida na Changamoto zake

MIMI NIMEPANDA MITIKI LINDI ndo nimeanza,mbegu zinapatikana wakala wa mbegu za misitu,morogoro(kihonda)barabara ya kwenda dodoma

Vipi changamoto za kukuza miche, inachukua mda gani mbegu kuota (germination)?
 
Kwa mti unaoweza kutoa angalau mbao tatu ndefu za 2" x6" hiyo bei ni ndogo sana ukilinganisha na atakachopata mnunuzi. Ubao mrefu wa 2x6 na uliopakwa dawa DSM una siyo chini ya Shs 17,000. Bei ya mti moja pale Mafinga (Sao Hill) ni zaidi ya Shs. 50 000. Tatizo kule vijijini watu wananunua vimiti vichanga sana.
Nadhani mdau ameangalia gharama alizoingia katika kununua miti na mazagazaga mengne ya kutunza hiyo miti,faida yake ni juu kuliko expensez.
 
Ardhi ya kupanda miti kama pines bado ni nyingi sana hasa kwenye karibu ya mkoa wote wa Njombe has kwenye wilaya za Njombe, Ludewa na Makete. Nadhani kuna sehemu za mkoa wa Rukwa na mbeya miti hii hustawi vizuri pia.Mimi nawatia moyo nyote ambao mnataka kupanda miti kufanya hivyo. siyo lazima uwe na kipato kikubwa sana. Huu ni mradi mzuri kwa wafanyakazi.

Mimi nimepanda miti kutumia mshahara wangu tu. Tunaweza kupishana kipato lakini panda angalau eka 10 au 20 kwa mwaka. Ni gharama ndogo tu. Hata mimi mshahara wangu siyo mkubwa sana lakini kwa uvumilivu sana nimeweza kupanda miti ya kutosha.Kazi ya kupanda inafanyika mwezi wa 12 kwa mikoa ya kusini. Ukishapanda huo mti unasubiri miaka ya kustaafu basi unaanza kuvuna. Ni kiunua mgongo kizuri kwa wafanyakazi.

Lakini ukiwa kijana bado ni kipato tosha na cha uhakika kwa kila mwaka. Mbao za Tanzania zinauzwa Kenya, Uganda, South Sudan, Somalia na Uarabuni. Kwa sasa hivi mbao za Tanzania hazitoshi kwa hiyo wapasuaji wanakwenda mpaka Malawi kununua miti huko. Uzuri mwingine wa kupanda mti ni kuwa unawatia hamasa wenyeji wa eneo utakalopanda miti. Wakati naanza kupanda miti pale kijijini nilikuwa karibu peke yangu tu. Baada ya kuwashauri wanakijiji nao kufanya kile nilichokuwa nafanya nao wakaanza kupanda miti.

Leo hii kijiji kimezungukwa na mashamba mengi ya miti ya wanakijiji. Baada ya miaka mitano uchumi wa kile kijiji utapaa sana kwani nitakuwepo kuhakikisha hawalaliwi na walanguzi wa miti.
Aisee alafu kama wewe ni mwana siasa na ubunge unaweza kupata huko...B2T umetufumbua macho humu ndani hasa vijana,tatzo la sisi vijana tunapenda sana matanuzi badala ya ku invest katka vtu kama hivi,me nimeshaanza hatua ya kuwasiliana na mtu hapa niangalie utaratibu wa kununua shamba na nianze hvyo hvyo mdogo mdogo..najua nitafika tu,asante sana kaka.
 
Nadhan mdau ameangalia gharama alizoingia katika kununua miti na mazagazaga mengne ya kutunza hyo miti,faida yake ni juu kuliko expensez..

Mwezi Desemba nilikuwepo kijijini. Wananchi walishangaa walipoona miti 27 ikinunuliwa kwa kwa shillingi milioni moja. Hii ilikuwa ni miti ya kijiji yenye umri wa miaka 17 na iliuzwa ili kupisha upanuzi wa ofisi za kata.

Kijijini kwetu mche moja unauzwa Shs 100 na kupanda ni Shs 50. Huhitaji kunyweshea maji wala kulima hilo shamba. Unatakiwa kufyeka shamba baadaya ya mwaka moja na labda baada ya miaka miatano. Gharama ni Shs 50,000 kwa ekari moja yeneye miti 500 (yaani Shs 100 kila mti). Vile vile ufanye pruning baada ya mika mitano na ukiweza ikifikia miaka nane au tisa. Gharama ni Shs 50000 kwa ekari yenye miti 500 (au Shs 100 kila mti). Kila mwaka ni lazima utengeneze barabara ya moto gharama ikiwa ni Shs 50000 kwa ekari (Hapa hesabu inabidi ziwe kali kidogo kujua eka moja itahitaji barabara ya urefu gani yenye upana wa kama robo eka hivi).

Hata hivyo utaona gharama za kutunza zipo chini sana. Kwa kweli bado utapata faida zaidi ukivuna miti yako wewe mwenyewe na kuuza mbao badala ya kuuza miti.
 
Vipi changamoto za kukuza miche, inachukua mda gani mbegu kuota(germination)?

Ikiwa sehemu yenye mvua ,kumbuka kipindi kizuri kuweka mbegu ni kuanzia disemba,uotaji wake mgumu kidogo,ila ndani ya wiki mbili kama pana maji ya kutosha zinaanza kuota.
 
Kazi ya kupanda miti inachukua muda mrefu kidogo. Hesabia siyo chini ya miaka kumi na mbili hivi toka upande ndiyo unaanza kuvuna. Unatakiwa kwenda nayo taratibu. Kila mwaka panda miti kiasi
fulani ili utakapoanza kuvuna uendelee kuvuna kila mwaka na kupanda ulikovuna.

Kuhusu gharama za kupanda zinatofautiana kufuatana na kijiji. Kijijini kwangu kwa sasa nadhani ni
aghali kidogo kwani ni watu wengi wanopanda miti. Muamko umekuwa mkubwa sana. Ni mimi niliwastua
baada ya kuona kazi niliyokuwa naifanya. Kwa sasa nadhani mche mmoja upo chini ya Sh 100 nakuupanda
ni Shs 30. Mimi nilianza kwa kununua mche Shs 30 na kupanda Shs 20. Hiyo ilikuwa miaka kumi iliyopita
lakini leo mti huo naweza kuuza siyo chini ya Shs 10,000 mpaka 20,000.

Kiasi cha mbao utakazopata inategemea na aina ya miti, matunzo,umri wa mti, na ulipanda
kwa nafasi gani (distance between trees). Mazungumzo yangu hapa yanahusu zaidi miti aina ya Pines.
Kwa kawaida tegemea kupata kati ya mbao tano za 2x6 kama ukiharakisha kuvuna lakini mtihuo
kama umekomaa (miaka 25 hivi) umetunzwa vizuri na ulipandwa kwa nafasi nzuri unaweza kutoa hadi
mbao 30.

Wengi wetu ikifika miaka 12 tunavuna, na kinachopatikana siyo haba lakini nadhani ni
nzuri zaidi kuvuna kuanzia miaka 15 au 16 hivi kwani utakuwa na uhakika wa kupata pingili siyo
chini ya mbili na mbao ndefu za 2x6 angalau 6 nakwenda juu . Ubao mmoja wa 2x6 uliopakwa dawa
hapo DSM unauzwa siyo chini ya Shs 17,000 na kule Mafinga kiwandani bila dawa ni Shs 10,000
bila kupungua senti tano.

Maeneo Mazuri za Kupanda Miti

Miti ninayozungumzia hapa ni Pines, Cypress na Eucalyptus. Miti hii inaota na kustawi vizuri sana
nyanda za juu kusini. Ukitaka kupanda miti nakushauri uende Njombe halafu kutoka hapo fuata barabara
nne: Kwenda Makete, Kwenda Ludewa, Kwenda Songea na Kwenda Lupembe. Utakapopita sehemu hizo zote
utaoona maeneo mazuri sana ya kupanda miti. Kupata eneo unaweza kununua kijijini au kwa wananchi.
Nakushauri usikubali kukodishiwa. Bei inategemea na eneo. Kuna sehemu upandaji wa miti umeshika kasi
sana kwa hiyo maeneo hayo ardhi itakuwa aghali kidogo japokuwa ndiyo sehemu nzuri kwani wananchi
wake watakuwa na uzoefu wa upandaji miti na hutakuwa peke yako kwenye kuhangaika kudhibiti moto.

Matunzo ya Miti

Baada ya kupanda unaweza kufyekelea mara moja au mbili mpaka mti ukomae. Pruning nayo unaweza kufanya
mara mbili. Njia za kuzuia moto (Fire Lines) unatakiwa utengeneze kila mwaka bila kukosa. Kwa vile
mimi nimepanda eneo kubwa basi niliamua kununua ng'ombe ambao wananisaidia kupunguza majani
pembezoni mwa shamba.

Ili uweze kumudu vizuri upandaji wa miti mingi, hasa kama utapanda kila mwaka, na nakushauri upande
kila mwaka kwa kweli inabidi uajiri kijana, kama siyo mwanzoni basi baada ya miaka kadhaa kupita.
Yeye ndiye atakayekuwa ndiyo wa kwanza kujua shamba linakabiliwa na matatizo gani na namna ya kuyatatua
haraka iwezekanavyo. Mimi shamba langu ni kubwa (siyo chini ya ekari 1500) nimeajiri vijana watatu.
Mmoja wao anaishi ndani ya shamba na ndiye anayetunza ng'ombe. Pamoja na ukubwa wa shamba lakini
nimelipanda polepole kwa miaka kama kumi hivi.

Nimeamua kuambatanisha picha chache za mradi wangu nashindwa kuleta nyingi zaidi kwa vile zinatumia muda mrefu mno kuload.

Mafinga vp panafaa kwa miti kuna mahal nimepata eka10.
 
Asante KVM,

Nichangie kwa kuleta nyongeza za hapa na pale ili kujazia mjadala wetu. Maeneo ya kupanda miti yaliyosahaulika ni Kilolo, Mfindi,Mby vijijini, Makonde plateau.

Tumetaja sana pines, cyprus, teak,eucalyptus, tumesahau acrocarpus kwa ukanda wa baridi na Msederela kwa kanda za joto kiasi.

Hatujazungumzia mbegu, mbegu bora za Pines kwa sasa ni Tatizo sugu.Tangu mwaka jana kituo cha Iringa wameshindwa kuzalisha, kwa hiyo pines/cyprus zinaandaliwa kienyeji na vijana huko vijijini.Kwa sasa pines za uhakika zinapatikana Nairobi, ila bei imesimama.

Mwaka jana tulipata taabu sana ya tubes, ila mwaka huu walau zipo pale TFA Iringa, bei iko juu. Ukiwa na usafiri wako, ni bora kununua Dar ukasafirisha. Dar ni Tsh 5000/ kwa kilo na TFA Iringa ni 6500/ kwa kilo.

Ili kupunguza gharama za kitalu, watika miche mapema, miezi mitano kabla ya msimu wa kupanda haujafika.

Kama unataka ardhi kubwa,Makete usiende, ni kazi ngumu kupata eka 50 za pamoja zinazofikiwa na miundo mbinu. Utapanda milimani ambako utashindwa kuvuna. Na maeneo mazuri yaliyobaki bei iko juu. Ludewa/Wino/Lupembe/Mfindi kusini huko bei poa.Kilolo bei inaanza kupanda.

Kwa wale wanaonunua miti na ardhi, wawe waangalifu, vijijini unaweza kuta miti ni mtu mwingine na ardhi ni ya mtu mwingine.

Asante, tuendelee kukata issue.

Kwa Makete maeneo mazuri yameachwa kwa ajil ya kilimo cha chakula isipokuwa uwanda wa juu wa kipengere mpaka matamba na kitulo ambako nyika zimeachwa na kuna uwezekano wa kupanda miti shida na kufika huko.
 
miaka 70! sipo tayari kwa hili. Ngoja niendelee kufanya utaratibu wa kumiliki ardhi kisheria maana hizi projects za muda mrefu ni lazima uwashirikishe watu wa ardhi kikamilifu kabla ya kuanza kupanda miti. Tuliangalie kwa umakini hili swala, watu wengi wamepoteza ardhi kwa kutofuata taratibu za umiliki

Ndio mana inaotaga yenyewe.
 
Kidabaga vijiji gani mkuu? Uko karibu na hawa New Forest kule Magome au Ng`ang`ange? Maeneo hayo bei iko juu sana sababu ya hawa NF. Jaribu kwenda Ng`ingula au Masisiwe, kule bado ardhi ipo, ila Lupilo bei iko juu sana.

Njombe mambo bado hayajaharibika sana. Wahi wahi.

I love ng'ang'ange!
 
Mafinga vp panafaa kwa miti kuna mahal nimepata eka10

Kama ujuavyo mbao nyingi zinatokea Mafinga. Huko kuna sehemu nzuri za kupada miti lakini siyo Wilaya yote ya Mufindi.
 
Gud idea yani, Jumapili nilienda kiluvya msibani jamani kuna engineer mmoja ana more than 5 ekari za mitiki, tena sikujua kama ndo inaitwa mitiki! ndo kuambiwa hiyo ni mbao nilivutiwa sana sana jamani, nafikir mitiki inastawi hata kwenye joto labda.
 
gud idea yani, jumapili nilienda kiluvya msibani jamani kuna engineer mmoja ana more than 5 ekari za mitiki, tena sikujua kama ndo inaitwa mitiki! ndo kuambiwa hiyo ni mbao nilivutiwa sana sana jamani, nafkr mitiki inastawi hata kwenye joto labda

Mitiki inamea vizuri sehemu zenye joto na unyevunyevu wa kutosha kama Kilombero, Longuza, Kyela, Muhoro nk. Sehemu zingine inaota lakini haifikii viwango.
 
Asante kwa shule nzuri nina eneo msata nafikiria kupanda miti

Nilikuwa pale Kihangaiko Msata wiki jana, kijiji kimegawa miti bure kwa waliojiandikisha na mingine inauzwa pale ofisini Kihangaiko Tsh 500. Sijui ni acrocarpus au Msederela, inaonyesha ina-growth rate nzuri. Nimeona shule ya Madesa iliyopo kijiji cha Kihangaiko wameotesha tayari. Nataka niangalie ukuaji wake ili na mimi nioteshe. Na mimi nina kieneo pale Msata, usikute ni majirani mkuu!
 
Ninashukuru sana kwa hii topic, hata mimi nipo interested sana na kupanda miti na ni idea ya muda sasa, issue kwangu ni namna ya kuanza especially kupata shamba kwa ajili ya kupanda. Ningeomba kupata japo idea kama ninaweza kupata eneo huko njombe na kwingineko ukizingatia mimi ninaishi dar. Na price inakuwaje, pia gharama za miche kwa sasa ni kiasi gani na kuotesha plus kutunza. Please please mwenye data ninaomba

Maeneo Mazuri za Kupanda Miti

Miti ya Pinus caribaea na Teak inaweza kupandwa ukanda wote wa pwani

Matunzo ya Miti

Kabla ya kupanda fyeka vichaka na majani yote, kisha choma takataka zote. Pines caribaea inapandwa kama miche .Teak inapandwa kama stumps(yaani mche uliokomaa unakata kichwa na kupunguzwa mizizi) kwa hali hii utakua kwa haraka sana.

Thinning hufanyika baada ya miaka 10 kupunguza 25% ya miti (unauza iliyopatikana kama nguzo au mbao boriti); baadaye unafanya thinning tena mwaka wa 15, kuvuna zao la mwisho ni around 20 years. lakini kama ulivyoona unaweza kuuza baadhi ya miti wakati wa thinning ya kwanza na ya pili.

Lazima miti ipunguzwe ili final produce iwe nzuri in terms of height na Girth( i.e >60 CM) hapa utapata zaidi ya cubic metres 3 kwa mti mmoja ambapo bei ni zaidi ya sh 25,000 kwa cubic metre 1(pine) wakati teak ni zaidi ya sh 400,000 kwa cubic metre 1.

Mbegu za pinus caribaea zinapatikna kwa wingi shamba la miti buhindi sengerema na mashamba mengine ya miti yanayoendelea na uvunaji

Kwa sehemu za baridi pinus patula inafaa zaidi.

Asante
 
INTRODUCTION

Teak (Tectona grandis Linn.f.), an important timber species of worldwide reputation (Banik, 1993) has indigenous distribution in Peninsular India, Myanmar, Thailand and Laos. It is believed to be an early introduction in Java (White, 1991). Outside its natural habitat, it is cultivated in South and South-East Asia, the Pacific, Africa, the Caribbean Islands, South America and Central America (Tewari, 1992), accounting for 14% of tropical forestry plantations (Evans, 1982).

Although systematic planting and management of teak dates back to the 1840s, a number of problems have been identified in maintenance and improvement of productivity in plantations. The commercial interest in shortening rotation may complicate management practices for want of enough growth data under high fertilizer and irrigation inputs. Apart from this, the impact of intensive high input forestry on sustainable production is also not clear.

This paper reviews the traditional plantation techniques and highlights various issues associated with management and productivity of teak in plantations.

TRADITIONAL PLANTATION TECHNIQUE


Teak forests are regenerated artificially, except in the dry teak forests, which are worked under a coppice system, or for the moister forests where the advance growth is cut back to form the new crop. The common practice is to raise new crops using root-shoot cuttings (stumps). This procedure has been going on for over a century in India. Various techniques of artificial regeneration have been more or less standardised, although there is scope for further improvement. More than knowledge about correct technique, a correct programme of work and its execution according to schedule is critical (Tewari, 1992).

Seed collection and nursery

Seed collection, storage and pre-sowing treatment

'Seeds' (technically fruits) are collected from the ground as and when they fall during January and February. The bladder-like calyx is removed by vigorously rubbing it inside a gunny bag. The seeds are then cleaned by winnowing. Seeds store well in gunny bags or sealed tins for 2-3 years.

The stony hard pericarp poses a problem for quick and uniform germination. In order to hasten germination, various pre-sowing treatments have been developed.

Some of the beneficial treatments include: 1) alternate soaking in water and drying for 24 hours each for two weeks; 2) immersing the seed in water for a number of days; 3) soaking the seed in a mixture of cowdung for a period up to one week; 4) putting the seeds in alternate layers of seed and sand in a pit with daily watering for 7 days, and then drying and storing till time of sowing; and 5) spreading the seed in a 10 cm layer in the sun on a mat or cement platform and watering constantly until commencement of germination.

Nursery site, preparation of beds, and seed rate

Well-drained sandy loam with gently sloping terrain is recommended for preparing nurseries.

Each bed is of 1.2 m (12 m size, spaced at 0.3 m to 0.6 m between beds and 0.6 m to 1.6 m between rows of beds. Each bed produces about 400-800 plantable stumps. The ground is ploughed and the area of the bed is dug out to a depth of 0.3 m. Roots, stumps and stones are removed. The clods of earth are broken fine. The soil is allowed to weather for about a month and then filled into the nursery bed with sand and organic matter. However, when temporary nurseries are established in forest areas rich in nutrients, no additional manurial inputs are necessary.

In moist localities the beds are raised to a height of 30 cm from ground level to prevent water logging. In dry zones, beds are made flush with the ground level. In very dry localities, with a mean annual rainfall of 750 mm or less, slightly sunken beds give better results.

The seed rate per standard bed of 12 m (1.2 m varies from 3 kg to 12 kg. At Nilambur in Kerala, about 5kg of seeds are commonly used.

Method of sowing of seed in seed bed and maintenance

Both broadcast sowing and line sowing or dibbling 5-10 cm apart are practiced. Line sowing or dibblings have greater seed economy and better survival and growth. Beds normally do not need any overhead shade. Irrigation is not provided except in very dry areas. Beds are maintained free of weeds.

Plantation establishment

Selection of site


The site for planting may be either plain or gently sloping with excellent drainage. Soils derived from gneisses, schists and trap are good for teak. Alluvial sites are superior for teak growth while laterite or lateritic gravel as well as clays, black cotton, sandy and gravely soils derived from sandstone are not good for teak plantations.

Preparation of planting site


After removal of saleable material, the site is given a burn to dispose of the slash and improve access and fertility. A study conducted by the Kerala Forest Research Institute (KFRI) indicates that slash-burning does not help to improve the growth of teak beyond the first year (Chacko et al., 1991).

Method of raising plantations


Stump (a root-shoot cutting) planting is the popular method of raising plantations. Stumps with a 1-2 cm diameter (at the thickest part, referred to as 'stump thickness') prepared out of one-year-old seedlings are planted in holes made with a crowbar. In dry localities, where rainfall is less than 900 mm, pre-sprouted stumps raised in polythene containers a few months in advance give satisfactory results. Direct sowing and transplanting of bare-root seedlings, though practiced in some areas, do not give satisfactory results.

Method of planting and spacing


Stumps are planted in crowbar holes and generally buried up to the collar. In drier localities stumps are planted flush to the ground. In hard soil, it is practiced to plant stumps in pits of 30 cm deep and 15 cm diameter.

Although spacings of 1.8 m (1.8 m to 3.6 m (3.6 m are practiced in different regions, 2 m (2 m is the most common.

Weeding


Weeds, especially grasses, retard teak growth and therefore are managed below the level of competition either by fork weeding, scrape weeding, uprooting or knife cutting at ground level. The number and intensity of weedings vary with the intensity of weed growth.

Intercropping


Intercropping in teak plantations (termed as 'taungya') during the initial two years of planting is a common practice where there is a demand for cultivatable land. Once the plantation area is leased out, the cleaning of the site, burning, staking and planting are done by the lease holders. The common intercrops are paddy, chillies, maize, wheat, sesame and various vegetables. Crops such as sugarcane, wet rice, plantain, jute, cotton, or creeping vegetables such as pumpkin and cucumber are not allowed. During the growth of the field crop, the weeding and tending of teak are done by the lease-holding farmers. However, in certain regions the practice of 'taungya' has been discontinued for reasons of soil degradation and suppression of teak (Alexander et al., 1980).

Plantation maintenance

Weeding and cleaning


Generally two to four weedings a year are required in plantations during the first three years. Scrape weedings can effectively control weeds. Cleaning is done in areas where bamboo forms the main understorey.

Thinning

Thinning prescriptions vary from one locality to another. Unfortunately, it is often governed by revenue rather than silvicultural considerations. In a good quality plantation, managed on a 50 year rotation, the thinnings are carried out at the fourth, eighth, 12th, 18th, 26th and 35th years. Thinning schedule varies with site quality. In better plantations the thinnings are done early as compared to poor plantations. The first two thinnings in plantations with an initial spacing of 1.8 m (1.8 m or 2 m (2 m are mechanical wherein 50 % of stock is removed in each thinning. Alternate diagonals in the first thinning, and alternate rows in the next are thinned. Climber cutting and cutting back of overtopping bamboos and other species are done during the early thinnings.

Reference: Management of Teak Plantations, Overview of problems in teak plantation establishment - Dr. Apichart Kaosa-ard (accessed online at Management of Teak Plantations)
 
INTRODUCTION

Some of the beneficial treatments include: 1) alternate soaking in water and drying for 24 hours each for two weeks; 2) immersing the seed in water for a number of days; 3) soaking the seed in a mixture of cowdung for a period up to one week; 4) putting the seeds in alternate layers of seed and sand in a pit with daily watering for 7 days, and then drying and storing till time of sowing; and 5) spreading the seed in a 10 cm layer in the sun on a mat or cement platform and watering constantly until commencement of germination.

Reference: Management of Teak Plantations, Overview of problems in teak plantation establishment - Dr. Apichart Kaosa-ard(accessed online at Management of Teak Plantations)

Nilipo-bold ndio napohitaji sana kupata uzoefu wa waliofanya haya mambo. Njia ipi kati au nje ya hizo hizo tajwa ni 'efficient'?
 
Some of the beneficial treatments include:

1) Alternate soaking in water and drying for 24 hours each for two weeks;
2) Immersing the seed in water for a number of days;
3) Soaking the seed in a mixture of cowdung for a period up to one week;
4) Putting the seeds in alternate layers of seed and sand in a pit with daily watering for 7 days, and then drying and storing till time of sowing; and 5) spreading the seed in a 10 cm layer in the sun on a mat or cement platform and watering constantly until commencement of germination.

Hizo njia zote ni effecticve lakini nzuri kuliko zote ni lile ya kubabua mbegu za teak kwa kutumia nyasi(fanya kama wale wanaobabua samaki kwa moto) yaani tandaza mbegu chini halafu tandaza layer ndogo ya nyasi na uziwashe moto ili zile mbegu ziungue kidogo. kisha zipande
 
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